22.1.11

Joyeux Christmas, Merry Noël!

After we returned from the Christmas market, we had a cross-cultural, multi-lingual holiday bash in the common kitchen at the Foyer where I live with Stephanie and Maisie.  Everyone brought something to eat or drink, and we partied like we were about to start our last week of teaching before Christmas vacation...mostly because we were :)


Maxine and Jess went up and down the hallway we live in, knocking on all the doors and inviting all our "neighbors" to come party with us....and two new friends showed up!  Erwan and Étienne, both Frenchies, joined us in our little Christmas soirée...

They even helped us open....
...and consume Stephanie's Disney Princess apple cider (though they admonished us that, were we to ever buy it again, they'd no longer be our friends.) 
We even got the chance to consume our first galette des rois (King cake) of the season!  The tradition is that the youngest person in the room has to get under the table and dictate which person gets which slice of cake; the person who gets the little fêve (a ceramic or plastic figurine) is supposed to have good luck for the rest of the year.  Traditionally the figurine was a baby Jesus, but increasingly it's become some pop-culture figure.  This particular galette des rois had figurines from The Chronicles of Narnia, but I've also seen Star Wars, Harry Potter, and Hello Kitty fêves.  Welcome to the 21st century...?


For once we actually ran out of alcohol, too, which Étienne remedied with 4 bottles of hard cider and Erwan fixed with a bottle of some illegal apple moonshine. 

We can see how that worked out :P
It was one of the best Christmas parties I've ever been to :)  Enjoy the photos!

Marché de Noël in our Precious Little Hamlet

Even though the Marchés de Noël, or Christmas markets, are typically a northern French/German tradition, the tradition has migrated through much of France.  Even Nevers, petite little ville that she is, has a bustling one :)  Most stores had Christmas specials, but one weekend was set aside for an actual outdoor (=frigid) Christmas market, with stalls, artisan vendors, free samples of wine, cheese, baked goods, bread, and other goodies.  Our usual crowd of English- (and Spanish-) speaking assistants went, and we came home with some great buys!

Even the giant grocery store got festive for the holiday season!  I lovingly dubbed this iteration of Father Christmas "Touchdown Santa."  Patent pending.
Place de la Résistance is all lit up at night
Our very own Arc de Triomphe (really called La Porte de Paris), lit up for the Christmas market
The first vendor we met was a really nice guy who sold cheese and sausages; we gathered around for free samples, and he told us that because we were pretty girls and because there were no men with us, he'd give us a 50% discount on the blue goat cheese (made from blue goats!) and sanglier (wild boar) sausage that we bought.  At that exact moment Javier, our token male Spanish assistant, walked up and was bisouing (our franglais term for the French custom of kissing friends on both cheeks to greet them or to say goodbye) to the other girls who weren't gathered around the stall.  The four of us who were there shamefacedly ignored Javi until we'd successfully paid half price for these snacks, then turned around and gave him the bisous he was impatiently waiting for.  It was a pretty funny scene :)

Goat Cheese Man, who insists that he's going to move to the USA to sell his artisan-made cheese because "there'd be no competition."  He's got a point....
The next stall we visited was a wine booth; of course, as I was imbibing, one of my students approached me to say hello. He's a fourth grader, and was out exploring the market with his parents, who waved wanly as they eyed their son chatting awkwardly with a strange young woman who was double-fisting half-full wine glasses at a Christmas market.  I'm sure they were actually a lot less wary than I thought they were, simply because wine drinking from a young age is so ingrained in their culture.  Still, I can only imagine what bizarre ramifications that little exchange would have had in the States...
Alsacian specialties.....yum :)
The Flavors of our Regional Terrain.  Also delicious, all of them :)
This man was selling churros! 

So of course we had to buy some :)
 There was also a man selling roasted chestnuts; despite being one of my all-time favorite Christmas songs, I've never actually tasted chestnuts roasted over an open fire!  Luckily, this guy remedied that gap in my gastronomical education. 
My friend Jess is obsessed with roasted chestnuts...and now I know why!
At the marché de Noël I ran into the winemaker whose website I've been hired to translate.  I introduced myself, we chatted about the website for a bit, and then he sent me home with a complementary bottle of his Cuvée Valentin, a nice crisp rosé blended from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend.  I also bought a 50cl bottle of his famed crème de cassis, or blackcurrant liqueur, which is INCREDIBLE...and also 20% alcohol by volume.  Heehee :) You can add it to champagne to make a kir royale, or to white or red wine for an apéritif, or drizzle it over vanilla bean ice cream.  It goes without saying that it didn't take long for my family to plow through that bottle :)  You can see his website here, and very soon (as soon as I finish the translation) you'll be able to check it out in English and let me know how I did!

All in all, this was a great first Christmas market experience.  In our small town the market wasn't anything extravagant, but it certainly did the trick to get us all in the holiday spirit :) 

16.1.11

Nevers, Ville des Lumières!

During the second week of December I went to Lyon with a friend for the Fête des Lumières, or Festival of Lights.  Every year the city of Lyon hosts the Fête des Lumières and people come from all over the world to see the city lit up for Christmas.  This year, Nevers did its own version of the Festival of Lights.  It was nothing like the original (which we saw the following weekend, and which you can see in a few posts!), but it was still a lot of fun! 

The rest of the girls were in Paris visiting Disneyland (a very cold excursion for them indeed), but Jess and I stayed in for a relaxing, blue-skied, snow-filled weekend of Christmas lights in what we've come to consider our hometown: Nevers. 

Nevers, charming and snow-laden
We started the day off with a vin chaud (hot spiced wine) and some live music. 
Old man dishing out our steaming cups of vin chaud--our first of the season!
The poor performers' hands looked SO cold, but towards the end of their performance a waiter from a nearby café came out to bring them each a cup of hot coffee. 

Sometimes service in France isn't that bad :) 
The day was full of performers; not only bands, but also various entertaining acts, like the Ice Queens on stilts accompanied by their not-so-talented Russian steel drum brethren, or the physical comedian trying to pitch a pop-up tent and failing miserably for 45 minutes.  

They were fun to watch, even though we had no idea what they were doing there...?
At one point he lost his pants...?  Entertaining indeed.
 Finally, once it was dark (and the comedian had re-pantsed himself), the mayor made a quick speech and pressed the button that lit up the whole city at once!  Some local high school students had engineered giant icicles to glow on cue, and they lit up Place de la Resistance really nicely.

Ooooh!  Ahhhh!  Pointy!!!
The rest of the city was similar: beautifully (or tackily) lit up, but bright and cheery and very efficient at getting us in the holiday spirit...even if we almost had a seizure at Place Carnot because of the flashing lights. 
The pedestrian street, all lit up for Christmas
Happy Holidays, says the Christmas hut!
Place Carnot.  You're lucky the internet spares you the frequency of the flashing....it's really painful.
Palais Ducal, regal under its blanket of snow and adoring spotlights


Though it's a bit late, I hope you all had happy holidays and that the holiday spirit kept you cheery through those short, dark days! 

White Christmas! Er, almost...

The day of our Thanksgiving celebration, it started to snow in Nevers :) 

 Apparently snow is pretty rare here; my classes were really rowdy for the next couple of weeks, because a lot of them were young enough to have never seen snow!  

By the morning after Thanksgiving, our courtyard was completely white! 




The sun came out after all the snow had fallen; there's nothing prettier than fresh snow on a sunny day!  Enjoy the pictures : )
Snow hats on the cathedral!

Icicles hanging from my window

I like to think my handmade snowflakes invited the real snowflakes into town for the holidays. 

10.1.11

After a brief hiatus...Thanksgiving!

This holiday season has been jam-packed with parties, traveling, and visits from people that I love, so I've let my blogging fall to the wayside.  Now I'm going to catch up by posting a lot of unrelated posts in quick succession, so let's see if you can keep up!

Thanksgiving

Since Thanksgiving is a fiercely American (and Canadian!) holiday, it not only gave us a reason to celebrate--it also gave us at least two weeks of Cultural Studies classes at our schools!  I, of course, led my youngest kids in making a Hand Turkey to teach them their colors. 
One feather is RED... One feather is YELLOW...
We celebrated Thanksgiving all together--the Americans, the British, the Canadian, the Spaniard, the French, and the Germans.  We took it upon ourselves to go all out in our celebration since Thanksgiving away from home is always hard, so we "rented" out the big kitchen and dining room in our Foyer, everyone brought something delicious, and we had a fantastic time :)

Stephanie made a centerpiece and nametags


We had sweet potatoes, pumpkin pie, turkey casserole, ham and leek Shepherd's pie, and even granules of gravy that Maisie found in London!



The food was delicious, and it was nice having such a multicultural feast :)  The leftovers weren't bad either...
My third Thanksgiving abroad, but by far the most satisfying :)